PIZZA, PULAV AND PULIYODARAI
If Historians of yore, have rated the leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy as one of the Seven Wonders of the World, Pizza, the Italian Queen of the culinary Kingdom, could be counted among the few that panders to the palate, in degrees unparalleled. Pizza has today crossed the frontiers and reigns every fast food joint, be it branded or otherwise. Youngsters in their teens and jeans, rave over it and even the middle aged have occasionally a mouthful and display a meaningful look.
Pizza always craves for a presentable look. Hence the Pizza bread is dressed up with lavish spreads of cheese, capsicum, onion, potato and green chutney and would look, as if clad in Saville Row Suit. A well made Pizza can easily wean one away from even Venky’s Chicken and would give hiccup to Hamburger. The society crowd swarms over it and yet, its forming an essential part in any auspicious occasions is unheard of. For formal dinners or marriage merry making, it is asked to stand at a distance, as the stiff upper lip variety would always look at it with askance. Like T.shirt on Saturdays, it has limited acceptability and admission, and an air of casualness around it.
Another serious shortcoming of Pizza is its inability to be a standard breakfast or an essential ingredient in formal lunches or dinners and yet has an outstanding record as a snack or side dish – almost like a Michael Bevon – a match winner, but in the limited variety, unacceptable to the classical one. It is too heavy to be a breakfast and too singular to be a lunch or dinner.
Pulav has an historical place in India and is accepted in the classical circle. You slightly modify Pulav and it becomes Briyani, which regaled the Royalties in the Mogul period and continues to reign. As it has well chosen ingredients like high quality Basmati Rice, green peas, beans, carrot etc. it is always in august company. No dinner or lunch is complete without Pulav being an essential part of it – like Tendulkar – it can be dropped only at the promoters’ peril. Equally well dressed like Pizza and elegant, Pulav can walk freely in any promenade, accepting acknowledgements in its stride. Kings and commoners both adore it and accept it as their own. Unlike Pizza, Pulav is native born and sons of the soil should certainly have right of place. A plateful of pulav, supported by spicy vegetables with salads and papad, one would ‘refuse to change his state with Kings’.
Unlike Pizza and Pulav, which have a universal appeal, Puliyodarai has a limited range and yet, is intense in its application. Made out of rice, tamarind, red chillies, chana and groundnut, Puliyodarai perpetuates one’s passion for it. Born with a boon not to perish under normal circumstances, puliyodarai proves an excellent accompaniment for travel. Puliyodarai, pampered with roasted papads and banana chips makes our journey memorable and meaningful and one longs for an extra length of the journey, lest the pleasure should come to an end soon. Puliyodarai is a puritan and hence roadside restaurants or even the Regal ones are not allowed to prepare it. Temples and residences and cooks in the marriage halls alone have the mandate to make it. Pulikacchal, which is a raw material for puliyodarai, appreciates in value, as the age advances, like vintage wine. An instant mixing of Pulikacchal with rice and roasted papad sends one into raptures. Puliyodarai plays a prominent role in any functions of an Iyengar family. Vaishnavaites’ shrines have perfected Puliyodarai to claim Brand Equity. Srirangam temple has a celebrity status, not only for the Deity, but also for the dexterity in the preparation of puliyodarai.
What is the common bond between the three born in different generations, locale and culture? All of them have enough merit to be a stand -alone serve and do not need side dishes to support them, though they are always seen in company. They either have an historical past or an instant appeal and fierce loyalty. Their preparation needs skill and competence of a very high degree, as they are complex in nature. Like the Pied Piper, they play tune and millions follow. They had humble origin, like some of the great Sages, and are today known for their sagas. They would continue to enslave us in the years to come.