PUNE PANORAMA

Having spent four years at Pune between 1997 to 2001, I try to relive those memorable years and recollect what I saw around me.

Sunil Gavaskar once said that he always preferred to be a vice -captain rather than the captain. Vice captain can share almost all the glories minus the responsibilities of the captain. Pune City is like a vice -captain. It basks in the glory, yet, is bereft of responsibilities of the capital. It is almost touching the distant suburbs of Mumbai and enjoys its modern facilities and yet is far away from its high speed and almost indifferent, if not irreverent attitude towards life. Pune is not swarmed with the busy bees of Mantralaya nor does it cater to the whims of the Netas, save the local ones. Quintessential pursuit of excellence and not court intrigues permeates its atmosphere.

Pune has a panoramic appeal. Once a city of cycles, now its roads are full of automated two wheelers, leaving no room for pedestrians to move about. In Chennai, if one tries to cross the road, in a little reverie, not looking at the speeding vehicles, auto rickshaw drivers will hurl choicest epithets in a strange language ( though they claim it to be Tamil) forcing one to put down his head in penitence, as if he/she has been sent to gallows for a grave offence. Not in Pune. One could cross wherever and whenever one chooses to; speeding drivers would slow down and manoeuvre their way, may be with a little smile, admiring the offender’s alacrity and audacity. Puneites have regulated aspirations. From bicycle to Bajaj Kawasaki or Kinetic Honda, and then to the local Telco made Indica with a Maruti for a change and the descendants of Peshwas’s life ambitions are fulfilled.

One starts the day with a brisk morning walk in the University campus for an hour, amidst thick trees, listening to the enthralling music of chirping birds, meeting Army colonels, in their shorts and canes, Professors mentally preparing the day’s lectures, Narlikars in the making recollecting the attributes of the nocturnal Nakshatras and the Pole Star in the North, software techies dreaming to become Dr. Narayana Murthy, who chased his sweet heart in the by lanes of Jungli Maharaj Road, before making it big at Bangalore and obese ladies oozing out sweat, on the way. Even in the hottest summer, the Sun would not go above 20 degrees in the morning, though it would be an oppressive 40 plus in the midday.

Shivajinagar is the citadel of upper class Maharashtrian culture. Bhaves and Barves would brush shoulders with Phadkes and Aptes. Equally at ease in Sanskrit and Mathematics, there is no wonder every street corner boasts of producing a Bhandarkar, Tilak or Wrangler Paranjpe. A leisurely walk in the evening at Fergusson College Road among Book stalls, British Council, Udipi Restaurants and the Majestic Fergusson College itself would inject fresh spirit to any sagging morale and one would start counting his Blessings. In contrast, the narrow Peths in the old city with dilapidated houses, congested streets, cacophonous sounds and disorderly scenes, though robe Pune with rich history they rob it off its spaciousness and freshness. Yet, Pune without its Peths, is like Mumbai without its chawls – the soul that provide them sustenance and significance.

East Street in Pune has an instant appeal to any visitor and the locals. Kayani Restaurant with its freshly baked cakes and Shrewsbury Biscuits would tantalise us and one could see, at times, a serpentine queue to pick and carry home a pack from Kayanis and spread the message in gossip sessions. Unlike Pizza Hut and Kentucky Fried Chicken, who woo their customers before winning over them, Kayanis draw the crowd into their den. If Punaikars perform Satyanarayan Puja in every street corner for spiritual solace, it is Lakshminarayan chivda for munching in ‘spirited parties’. When Mumbaikars are mesmerized by Mama Kane, the progenies of Peshwas in Pune are swirled and swayed by Chitale Bandhu, who bond them with their Bakarwadis.

Being the head quarters of the armed forces, Pune is littered with Cantonments – at Dehu Road, Kirkee and in the eastern parts of the city. The orderliness of the Cantonments fails to appeal to one, brought up in civilian chaos. Pune can boast of more number of retired ‘Services” Officers than any other city. After all the Mavlas had all the military might. If NDA provides promising Services Officers, the AFMC has supplies aplenty of Medical Corps.

The number of educational institutions and the University itself make Pune the Oxford of the East. One could bump into Mashalkars in the making in the vicinity of National Chemical Laboratories, or a Narlikar type Astro Physicist at the gates of Chandrasekhar Auditorium in the University campus or a potential Mahamahobadhyaya poring over ancient and almost brittle texts in the Bhandarkar Institute. Aspiring artists, with Amitabh Bacchan as their role model, do penance and find solace in the Film Institute, failing which, do research in the Film Archives, opposite. If Pune is prima donna in quality education, it does not lag behind in selling seats for cents. If in July-August it is monsoon in Mumbai, it rains currency notes for college seats in Pune Streets.

Hinjewadi is gradually becoming the Silicon Valley of Deccan. Soon a Bill Gate would emerge from ‘Swargate’. When others add to their calories by eating ‘gharam pakoras, ’ Pune ennobles and embellishes itself with "Param”. A long walk in the camp area amidst shopping arcades, while reminding one of Champ De Elyssy, would also make Brigade Road of Bangalore blush and pink with envy.

If Puneites pride themselves on the Pune-Mumbai regular Deccan Queen, Mumbai in turn flaunts Indrani and Intercity Express. The regular travellers spend a major part of their life outside business in these trains and hence the travel tells stories of passengers. Over cups of tea, strangers would exchange notes on topics from the efficacy of yogic exercises to the size of the spoon for turmeric powder. If the young ones would exchange glances, parents would try to match the horoscopes and grandmas would trace the maiden names of their third cousins.

If Mumbaikars are lavish in their life style, thrift is the treading path for Puneites. Though one occasionally encounters vulgar display of wealth, Puneites are puritanical in their approach. Yet, during Ganesh Puja festival, groups vie with one another to display their resources. Though some of the Peshwas led a prodigal life, their descendants, well matured, lead a refined life following Wordsworth’s ‘Simple living and High Thinking’.

As in Mumbai one gets only a glimpse of the coastal Konkan life, for an encompassing view of Maharashtra, Pune alone provides the platform. Barring Vidarbha, which is in yonder horizon, any corner of Maharashtra is drivable distance from Pune.

Pleasant climate, pleasanter people with prospects of high quality life, Panoramic Pune would always beckon one to be beside her for a soothing carass and stress free life.